Six Shunga scenes rotate beneath a Grand-Feu enamel dial — made for Art in Time's Ginza boutique opening
The Chopard L.U.C Essence of Shunga is a one-off piece, being the only example made specifically for Art in Time, the gallery based in Monaco which focuses on artistic watchmaking. It has been created to mark the opening of Art in Time's new boutique in the Ginza area of Tokyo, and Chopard's response is something that at the same time appears to be a watch, a painting and a cultural statement. Under a Grand-Feu enamel dial there is a turning disc with six erotic scenes, each of which has been hand-made in the traditional Urushi lacquer by a Japanese master craftsman and is inspired by Shunga – the celebrated art form from Japan's Edo period. Price: €97,000 excluding VAT (~$112,000).
Chopard L.U.C Essence of Shunga — one example, one owner. © Chopard
What is Shunga and why did Chopard L.U.C select it?
The term Shunga — which may be translated as "spring pictures" — refers to a type of erotic art that thrived in Japan during the Edo period, between 1603 and 1868. It was created by masters of the ukiyo-e tradition such as Katsushika Hokusai and Kitagawa Utamaro, and was commissioned by people from all sections of Japanese society. Rather than being seen as taboo, Shunga examined intimacy, relationships, beauty, and humour in equal measure. In recent years major organisations such as the British Museum and the Rijksmuseum have held exhibitions of Shunga, thus securing its position as an important element of Japan's artistic heritage.
The Chopard L.U.C Essence of Shunga makes use of this tradition by featuring six scenes, each one carried out in the Urushi lacquer technique, painted by a Japanese artisan and fitted onto a disc which rotates within the watch.
The Grand-Feu enamel dial: dark blue background, pink-gold Japanese numerals, stylised tea house. © Chopard
The Chopard L.U.C watch, Essence of Shunga Disc, contains six scenes and one aperture.
The main visual feature of the Chopard L.U.C Essence of Shunga is the disc which is positioned between the movement and the enamel dial. Six scenes inspired by Shunga appear in turn through an opening at the top of the dial as the disc rotates—each miniature being handcrafted using the Urushi technique, this involving the application and layering over time of natural lacquer derived from the sap of the Urushi tree, which gives it a depth and richness similar to that of porcelain. Since the technique demands great patience, one layer must cure before another can be applied and the conditions—humidity, temperature, and time—have to be carefully controlled.
The deep, shimmering blue background of the dial is complemented by pink-gold Japanese numerals and a stylised image of a tea house. In the same 40mm × 8.1mm case, two traditional techniques—Swiss Grand-Feu enamelling and Japanese Urushi lacquering—are combined, the piece being made in an ethical 18k rose gold.
One of the six Shunga scenes visible through the rotating disc aperture — Urushi lacquer on a mechanically driven disc. © Chopard
The L.U.C 96.29-L: The Movement Which Causes It To Rotate
The disc does not rotate by itself; instead it is driven by the L.U.C 96.29-L, an automatic movement made by Chopard in Fleurier. This movement was also used in the earlier L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, which featured a rotating zodiac disc in a similar kind of arrangement. Because of its slim design — partly due to the use of a micro-rotor — the 96.29-L enables the total case thickness to remain at just 8.1 mm even with the complications of the rotating display. It has a speed of 28,800 vph and provides a 65-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire caseback; this shows the finishing standard that is expected of the L.U.C family, namely bevelled edges, polished steel parts, and Chopard's characteristic decoration.
L.U.C 96.29-L through the sapphire caseback — micro-rotor, 65-hour power reserve. © Chopard
The Chopard L.U.C Essence of Shunga is combined with a burgundy alligator leather strap — a modest and deeply warm option contrasting with the rose gold case — and has a price of €97,000 excluding VAT (approximately $112,000). Since it is a unique piece, it is available as a single item: one dial, one disc, one owner. Further information about Chopard's L.U.C artistic crafts collection can be found at chopard.com, and details of Art in Time's full programme are available at art-in-time.com. For more information about Métiers d'Art watches, please see our art watches guide.